Tuesday, November 24, 2009

That which shall not be named...

I was a bit tipsy as I ventured out, due to the 3 (large) beers that the father of the woman who runs the guesthouse gave me with dinner, so it made the already tense job of crossing the street seem even more difficult.  Maybe the alcohol was important though, as where I was going wasn't exactly prime tourist territory.  It was past 9PM, and I knew I had to get there quickly, before it closed.

Wandering in the direction I was told to go, I come to the street that is my destination.  It's not well lit at all, not nearly as well traveled as most of the other streets in Saigon, but this was the street pointed out to me.  I stumble down, looking for something I don't quite know how to find, with my phrasebook in hand...

I pass a busy streetside cafe thing, with a good amount of people sitting outside.  A man gestures me over, smiling at me.  I point to my phrasebook: "Thit cay?" I ask.  "Yes, here!" he says, with a big smile on his face.

I sit down.  There are no tourists here, and everyone is looking at me, muttering words I will never understand, and laughing under their breath.  I start to feel a bit nervous, and wondering if I should even be here at all...  Just then, a group of men walk by, one of them leans in close to my ear and asks:

"Do you want to eat dog?"

Yes, ladies and gentlemen, on the last full day that I was in Vietnam, after going to the market, buying food, and cooking dinner for the family I was staying with (not to mention drinking with them as well), I went out on my last chance to have this popular, if not widely eaten, Vietnamese street food.

Of course, I had no idea what I was ordering, I just asked them to recommend something.  Out came little barbecued pieces of what looked like pork, but I knew wasn't.  It was served with bitter herbs and leaves to wrap the meat in, and a chili/salt/pepper/lime mixture for dipping.  And of course, another beer.

You know what?  It isn't that bad.

Probably the chewiest meat I've ever eaten, but definitely not the least flavorful.  Maybe it was the cooking method, but it kinda tasted like a gamier pork, and not in a bad way.  If I hadn't already eaten dinner, and the place wasn't in the process of cleaning up (or if I had another day or two) I would have had more, to see what else you can do with it. 

I do wonder about how they obtain the dog meat for cooking.  There are alot of dogs in Vietnam, some farming dogs, many just lazy city dogs that roam around, and it's not clear if they are a part of a family or not...  I will say this about dogs, I've never seen lazier ones in my life.  The sun/heat are so intense, they just lie in the shade all day, not moving unless you are about to run them over...  I wouldn't think that there were "dog farms" per se, though...

Basically, I won't ever serve it on a menu, but it's not nearly as freaky as thinking about it.

However, there is one Asian "delicacy" that is just as scary as it sounds:  Durian.

This was another one I left until the end.  I meant to get it in the Mekong, because they grow them down there, but our guide said that it was getting out of season, so I bought a piece from the Saigon Market hours before we got on the plane... A bit more than a dollar for a 1/4 lb piece. 

Smell:  Rotten Socks mixed with wet cat/dog.
Taste: Creamy Rotten Bananas mixed with wet cat/dog

I know the list of things I won't touch if put in front of me isn't very long (honestly, Natto is the only one I had coming into Vietnam), but two more have made the list: Fertilized Chicken Egg (but I'd eat it if I had to), and Durian.  The taste of the fruit was so strong, and so revolting, my stomach was queasy for the next 2 hours, after having a fruit smoothie and spring rolls, as well as half a litre of water.

More power to you people who like it, but I'll take dog over Durian any day...  Probably a lot easier to get dog in the states, as well. =)

4 comments:

Unknown said...

Durian is quite easy to get stateside... however I wholeheartedly agree with you on the taste/smell... even if my mother claims otherwise.

Michele said...

I can't believe you tried dog!!! But the funny thing is, I'm more disturbed by the thought of durian. Your description made me nauseous. Anyway, my dad eats it like it's ice cream. Go figure.

ceebs said...

ewwww, Durian. Natto is good! Make it like a sushi roll thing.

Mom said...

I'm glad you had a good time in Viet Nam, but I'm also glad you are continuing your trip. Wait till you taste what I've made lately! You may actually like it now that you've had the other stuff!