Hue

Blogging like crazy today.  In Hue, going to get on a plane to Hanoi later tonight...

The hotel we were staying at here has been fantastic (as they all have been, which is nice).  They were a bit pushy to get us on tours (as they get commission), but they had free breakfast, they carried all of our bags to our room (with the shopping we did in Hoi An, up 4 flights of stairs, no small feat), and were very helpful when it came to just about everything.

Hue is two cities in one.  Divided by the Purfume River, the ancient city on one side of the river is built in a Citadel that used to house the Nguyen Dynasty.  It is the part that is small, similar to Hoi An (with less selling), and a blast to walk around.  I saw schools, ate some great street food, and had a good wander.  On the other side of the river (and around the citadel outside of the huge walls) is a modern society that seems very much up to date.  Kids walk around in fashionable clothes, there is a large percentage of young people (and tourists).  Everything about the modern area seems more advanced/western.  The cyclo (like a bike rickshaw) drivers, motorbike drivers, and boat drivers are as annoying as flies (or even more so).  They will follow you even after you tell them no 10 times.  "Maybe later?" is the phrase here...

The historical part of the citadel (the citadel inside the citadel) is an ancient Chinese temple (ancient meaning a bit more than 200 years old), and it's weird to see something so blatantly Chinese in Vietnam.  I know that the Chinese occupied them for a while, and have a big influence on everything, but still, you expect something distinct because of the way the culture has adapted.  It was beautiful, and you could tell that there was lots of construction going on to renovate the various buildings and make them more apt for tourism.  The tilework was beautiful, and some of the renovated areas were very nice.  It really makes you wonder how life would have looked in a place where the king had over 300 wives, 1000 servants, and 400 meter squared grounds (It seemed like more though).  I would have liked to see a gigantic ceremony with a bunch of guardsmen in the same costume, with a regal procession, etc...

But when it comes down to it, it was another temple/palace complex.

After that, I walked around and got something to eat.  I found a place where there was a variety of food (chicken, pork, shrimp cakes, etc..), and sat down.  The son of the lady cooking was a student who spoke great English, so we chatted for a bit.  While I was eating, a bunch of white travelers saw me, and all stopped to eat after asking me if it was any good (it was).  The whole family, who was staring at me oddly at this point, got really excited that more people were going to eat (6 people came, but only 2 of them ate).  I chatted for a bit with a guy from Sweden and a girl from South Africa, and when they left, I continued my conversation with the son for a few more minutes. 

I wandered around the city for a bit longer, and then meandered back to the hotel via the river.  I sat on the banks, just hanging out for a bit, which was nice, because it was the one place I wasn't pestered in the city.  Even sitting here, there is a group of Vietnamese girls that are staring over my shoulder for some reason, maybe waiting to use the computer.  I swear, no peace in this country...